“As someone who’s lived in France for 10 years and written about food for 15—and is cognizant of the bile likely to appear in the comment section at the bottom of this page—I will say this anyway: This pastry stood shoulder-to-shoulder with top-flight Parisian croissants.” Can wheat nerds and scientists figure out a way to make a better bread? First you have to make the bread, then you have to convince consumers of “how good artisan whole-grain foods can taste.”