“Anthropologists like to say that to observe a culture is usually, in some small way, to change it. A similar dictum holds true for Bourdain’s show. Whenever Bourdain discovers a hole-in-the-wall culinary gem, he places it on the tourist map, thereby leaching it of the authenticity that drew him to it in the first place. ‘It’s a gloriously doomed enterprise,’ he acknowledged. ‘I’m in the business of finding great places, and then we f*ck them up.'” (My kids have the same goal on family vacations.) The New Yorker’s Patrick Radden Keefe on Anthony Bourdain’s Moveable Feast.